As
we crest the south ridge of Pack Mountain, you'll see a wall of blue toned
mountains running north to south on the opposite side of an enormous plush
emerald green valley, this is Polk County, Tennessee. Polk County is a
historical county filled with mountains, lakes, whitewater rivers, a majestic
wilderness and a story that tells the tale of past land abuse, in the
name of progress and wealth. The green valley of upper Polk County is
coming back to life, as a results of a great reclamation plan organized
to restore life to a land devastated by acid rain, logging and copper
mining.
Prior to the 1850's The Copper Basin had
already began to suffer due to the burning of forested land by both the
early settlers and the Cherokee. Copper ore was discovered in this region
in the 1850's. From the time of this discovery through 1987 the Copper
Basin had the largest metal mining operation in the Southeastern United
States. Early profiteers gave no attention to the environment, cutting
down every available tree for copper smelting, creating an acid rain that
killed over 60,000 acres. This turned the land into what was later described
as having the appearance of a red moonscape.
Several
large mines dot the landscape with Hiwassee Mine being the oldest, Isabella,
the Burra Burra Mine in Ducktown and the Company of Copperhill Tennessee.
Additional logging in the Cohutta Mountains made matters worse. The scars
are mostly hidden now, but the history of the mines is alive in the hearts
of the hearty mountain folk who did the back breaking labor in the mines,
and called their employer, "The Company."
The US Forest Service purchased the devastated
land, and a reclamation plan began with the help of the Civilian Conservation
Corps in the early 1930's. It has continued through the efforts of at
least three copper companies as well as the Tennessee Valley Authority.
For more information, check out the The University of Tennessee Institute
of Agriculture's "Copper
Basin Reclamation Project."
Two mining towns served the Copper Basin
area, Ducktown and Copperhill. Copperhill, the larger town is located
on the banks of the Ocoee
River as it crosses into Tennessee. Across the state line adjoining
Copperhill, is the North Georgia town of McCaysville. The Ocoee River
becomes the Toccoa River once it crosses the Georgia state line . Copperhill
is now a town of quaint shops, several eateries and lodging.

Both Copperhill and Ducktown are railroad
towns serving the copper mines and logging industry. Ducktown is a classic
mining town. The Burra Burra Mine site, on the edge of Ducktown is listed
on the National Register of Historic Places. The Ducktown Basin Museum
tells the story of this local mountain mining region.

It's the 1850's,so how do we get the copper
to market? Transporting the heavy loads of copper, over what is now designated
as a wilderness land of steep mountains, would be difficult to impossible.
Down grades are the easiest way to the market and the Ocoee
River Gorge was the only conceivable way down to the Tennessee
River Valley below.
Continuing west on US 64 we approach the
base of the Cohutta Mountains and begin a short climb to Boyd Gap, we
have now entered the Cherokee
National Forest of Eastern Tennessee. There's an overlook at Boyd
Gap on the south side of US 64, although it is hard to notice without
looking for it. From this overlook, you can see the grandeur of the Cohutta
Mountain Wilderness northern region. Keep in mind, these mountains
also suffered from the logger's saws at the turn of the century before
the National Forest Service re-established these mountains to their present
beauty. In the narrow valley below and to the west you can see the upper
Ocoee River but don't necessarily be looking for water. The river is controlled
by a system of dams. The water may not always be visible, but the multitude
of large boulders forming the river bottom are.
Following the Southern Highroads Trail
on US 64 west, we make a descent into the natural and man-made wonders
of the Ocoee River Gorge. The Ocoee
River is a hard, forceful, natural, scenic whitewater river, whose
water flow, and steep gorge seemed impossible to tame.
The original Ocoee River trail, became
the Old Copper Road. This narrow trail following the Ocoee River had to
be widened for freight going and coming into the Copper Basin Area, today
we know this road as US 64, and a special part of the Southern Highroads
Trail.
We've
now reach the northern bank of the Ocoee River and the Ocoee Whitewater
Center. The Ocoee Whitewater Center was built to host the 1996 Summer
Olympic Kayaking events. This is a great place for a break from driving.
This section of the river was constructed boulder by boulder to create
a course worthy of the Olympic games. The course only has whitewater flowing
through it on specified days between spring and fall, the main river is
diverted to the north. Low level water always flows through the course
creating wading pools along with small cascades amongst the numerous boulders,
throughout the visitor's area.
To the east of the Ocoee Whitewater Center,
along the northern banks of the Ocoee River, is a section of the original Old
Copper Road, it is now a well maintained trail. A hiking or trail
bike trip along this trail you'll find a mostly level but rough and rocky
trail with hand cut granite boulders, from one end of the Ocoee Gorge
to the other. This example of early trail blazing makes an asphalt thoroughfare
a welcome modern marvel of engineering.
Leaving the Ocoee Whitewater Center and
heading into the gorge, past a power station, round a big curve you'll
reach a narrowing, steeper gorge and Ocoee Dam No. 2, the oldest of the
Ocoee Dams. It's called the "wood dam" and it appears to be
covered with a concrete type sealant. When the water flow is high, the
dam works as a huge, thundering waterfall. On the opposite end of the
dam are two flood gates, one opens onto the river below the dam, while
the other gate flows into a wooden sluice or trough that follows high
along the southern wall of the gorge.


Ocoee Dam No. 2 is the middle Ocoee launch
site for whitewater rafting and kayaking. These first rapids are rated
a "class 5" for intensity, a quick learning experience for the
novice adventurer. This set of rapids is rightfully known as, "Grumpys."
Here we begin an exciting ride along the banks of the Ocoee
River, under the shadows of a long wooden box filled with water.
The
Ocoee Gorge narrows with descent. The river below averages 5 to 12 feet
down from the
roads edge. There is no shoulder on the north side of the
road. Occasionally you can find a narrow pull off on the river bank side
of the road for whitewater viewers and photographers. Be careful if you
choose to pull off, and when you re-enter traffic, a lot of the road has
blind turns and it is hard to see what is coming around the bend.
The thing I enjoy the most about the gorge
is its accumulation of natural and man-made features. Nature created its
force and beauty, man harnessed its power, making the gorge a melding
of man and nature. The Old Copper Road and the Ocoee River are an exciting
ride both on the road and on the river. The Ocoee River gorge is the only
gorge on this journey where a road follows so closely to the whitewater,
offering a constant view of the whitewater thrill. If you are interested
in whitewater you'll enjoy the Blue Ridge Highlander's story, "Ancient
Waters, Thrilling Ride".
Continuing down the Ocoee River Gorge
with the water-box hanging overhead, we come to an old stately brick powerhouse
that receives
the pressure as the water in the box ends its journey, and dumps its load
back into the Ocoee River. After the power station, the Ocoee River begin
to level off, the perfect place to unload
the
big air rafts for the journey back up the gorge. This where the rafting
enthusiast tell their tales and the rafting guides prepare to take another
group down the river. The trail down US 64 continues along gentle curves
holding the river close in its grip, the now calm waters of the Ocoee
River begin to merge with the turquoise blue waters of Ocoee Lake as we
exit the gorge.
Staying along the northern shores of Ocoee
Lake, on US 64 we continue westward with Chilhowee Mountain rising sharply
on the north side of the road. Ocoee Lake with its islands, channels and
surrounding mountains is definitely a photo opportunity and has several
overlooks along the lake's northern shore. Halfway between the gorge and
Ocoee Dam No. 1 at the western end of the lake is a National Forest Ranger
Station in the Cherokee
National Forest. Here you'll find a steep paved road that will
take you up to the top of Chilhowee Mountain with numerous views of Ocoee
Lake, the Cohutta
Wilderness and the Tennessee River Valley below.
Following the shores of Ocoee Lake we
come to a low mountain gap between Chilhowee Mountain and a beautiful
cone shape mountain of modest size to the southwest. Ocoee Dam No. 1 is
situated in the center of this gap. There's a pull off here with an overview
of the dam, and a diagram of the TVA's watershed control. Below the dam
is a park of interest. Here you'll find a kiosk with a large embossed
3D display of the water shed of all the southern highlands Western and
Eastern Continental Divide watersheds. This display really helps to understand
the purpose in controlling the water flowing from the mountains. Another
interesting feature in the park is a miniature model of the Ocoee Whitewater
Center's Olympic Water Course. There's no water in the miniature model
now, but during its development, water from the Ocoee
River was diverted and used to test the miniature model's effect
on boulder placement, it then diverted the testing waters back into the
Ocoee River.


Exiting the park, US 64 continues west
on the Southern Highroads Trail. At this point, a separate road veers
north from the park on Polk County Road 314. This route cuts across the
farmlands and meadows to Benton, Tennessee. Benton is a quaint farm community
below the far western slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains, located on a
direct route leading to Knoxville Tennessee.
Polk County is a world of two lands, Upper
Polk County and Lower Polk County. Upper Polk County is the land of high
mountain wilderness, copper mining history, and the 18.8
mile John Muir Trail. The Hiwassee River, Conasauga River and the Ocoee
River flow from Upper Polk County into Ocoee Lake and across the farmlands
of Lower Polk County.
The lower lands of Polk County and the
valley beyond has a cultural history older than the adjoining highlands.
This is part of the region known as the Tennessee River Valley. Over the
last 250 years, the valley's history evolved due to three main influences.
The first influence was the Native American and white settler conflicts
in the early expansion of America. The second was the the Civil War campaign
efforts to control the key southern city of Chattanooga and defeat the
Southern Army in the Battle of Atlanta. The third influence was the TVA's
construction of a network of dams and lakes, to control the flooding waters
from the Blue Ridge and Cumberland Mountains into the Tennessee River
Valley. This monumental task, was the work of the 1930's government project
known as the Tennessee
Valley Authority Watershed Control Project.
Continue along the Trail as we cross over the Tennessee River Valley Border back into The North Georgia Mountains